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Garments featured in Fitting Tips!™

Diagnosing Wrinkles

from Fitting Tips!™  Volume 5, Number 4, May 2002
All rights reserved

We've seen a lot of descriptions on the chat lists regarding wrinkles in the sleeves.  We've put up these pictures showing wrinkles which result from an insufficient cap height in the draft.

 

The suit with the sleeves attached shows the typical wrinkles which form when the sleeve cap is too short:
Click on the picture to see a larger version.

  

Releasing the shoulder seam smooths the wrinkles and reveals that additional cap height needs to be added:

Click on the picture to see a larger version.


Click on the picture to see a larger version.

One inch of total cap height was added to smooth this sleeve. It was added by raising the cap 1/2 inch and lowering the armscye 1/2 inch.

Click on the picture to see a larger version.

Although Loretta is only 5 feet tall, she has always struggled with garments that have a cap height which is too short. As a child, she can recall her mother taking the scissors to the underarm of the bodice to create a comfortable armscye, then trimming the sleeve to correspond. On a body that is otherwise petite, the armscye is uncharacteristically long.

At first, it was tempting to think that the sleeve was actually too tight in the bicep, but when testing we found that although raising the cap height in PMB narrows the sleeve cap, there was still plenty of bicep ease.

 

The lesson here...Wrinkles "point" to the problem. Release seams to smooth the wrinkles. Add or subtract according to what this exercise reveals.

 

 

 

 

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This page was last updated May 12, 2003 03:26:10 PM .