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Creating a Shoulder Pad

Creating a shoulder pad is very simple. By creating you own shoulder pad, you can achieve a pad which is sized to fit your shoulder (ever have your purchased shoulder pads extend into your neckline?) You can control the depth of the pad and you can assure that the pad will looks its best in your finished garment.

To make your own custom pads you will need:

(There are 9 steps.  Click on any image to see a larger version.)

1. Measure your shoulder seam with the compass. Do not include the seam allowance at the neck or arm edge in this measurement. Simply set the point of on the neck edge seam allowance and adjust the pencil to hit the arm edge seam allowance line.

2. Draw half a circle using the compass at this setting. Decrease the setting by one inch and draw a second half circle. Decrease the compass setting by an additional 5/8" and draw a third half circle. You should now have three pattern pieces. (If you have a very long shoulder seam, you may want to decrease in larger increments, maybe as much as one inch.) 

3. Cut the pieces from the fusible fleece. To create a thicker pad cut several pieces of fleece of each size. You can also cut intermediate sized pieces if they are needed to achieve a smooth pad. Cut two of the largest piece.

4. Cut the largest pieces from your cover fabric, adding a seam allowance. This works well with a fusible tricot fabric if you do not wish to cover the pads to match your garment.

5. Mark the center of all the pieces.

6. Place the cover fabric over the tailor's ham. Use the curve of the ham to simulate your shoulder shape. Pin the cover to the ham. (If using fusible tricot the fusible side should be facing up.

7. Stack the fleece largest to smallest on the ham. Place the fusible side down. Be sure to align the center markings and straight edge of the pad. Use pins to keep the pads centered during this process. 

End with the second piece of your largest size on the top.

8. Remove the pins and fuse using a steam setting.

9. Place the remaining fabric cover over the pad. If you are using fusible tricot, fuse it too. If you are using non-fusible fabric you can stitch or serge around the pad. When stitching, use a zipper foot to sew right up next to the padding.

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