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All Topics: Bra Size Fly Front Zipper Dress Stand Lapped Zipper Shoulder Pads Shoulder Point PMB 2 piece sleeve PMB Inseam Pocket

Classroom

Inserting a Lapped Zipper

This method of installing a lapped zipper was developed for teen sewing classes. It has been used successfully by children as young as 10. The traditional method of machine basting the seam allowance and removing the basting when the zipper is installed resulted in too many holes in the garment.

Follow the instructions step by step. I recommend pinning the zipper into position and then sew with the zipper foot. Remember to keep the needle between the zipper foot and the coils of the zipper

For special fabrics, the final stitching to secure the lap may be done by hand. (This is often called a hand picked zipper.)

(There are 12 steps.)

1. Mark on the seam allowance where the zipper will be. Starting at the bottom of the zipper, back tack and sew the seam to the hem of the garment using a 5/8 inch seam allowance. Leave seam open where zipper will be.

2. Press the stitched seam allowance open. On what will be the left side of the finished garment, fold back and press to the wrong side of the zipper opening the 5/8 inch seam allowance.

3. Place the zipper front side down on the unpressed edge of the zipper opening. Match the edge of the zipper to the raw edge of the fabric and pin in place.

4. Using a zipper foot, stitch the zipper to the seam allowance about 1/8 inch away from the zipper coils.

5. Fold the seam allowance under so you are looking at the front of the zipper and the right side of the fabric. Pin through the fabric and zipper to hold in place. The edge of the fabric should be close to the edge of the zipper coils.

6. Sew a line of stitch close to the zipper coils. You are still using the zipper foot.

7. Pin the other edge of the zipper to the raw edge (one layer of fabric) of the left side of the opening. This is the side that was pressed back 5/8 inch, but is now opened flat. The left side of the garment is folded back over the right side of the garment. You will be sewing, using the zipper foot, through the zipper tape and one layer of fabric only.

8. The zipper is pinned to only the raw edge. Sew a line of stitching through the zipper and the seam allowance about ¼ inch from the edge of the fabric

9. Let the edge you pressed in step 2 lap over the zipper. It should overlap the coils about 1/8 of an inch. Pin through the fabric, zipper tape and seam allowance.

10. Draw a line with removable pencil or chalk where you want to sew the top stitching for the zipper lap. This is about 3/8 inch from the folded seam edge but can be any distance you want, just as long as you will sew through all of the layers to secure the zipper in place.

11. Put a pin in the seam at the bottom of the zipper as a marker.

12. Sew through all layers from the right side of the fabric. When you get even with the pin making the zipper bottom do a square turn with the needle in the fabric and stitch to the seam.

order forms customer service view your shopping cart 1-888-887-7079

Check out Karen's on-line article at Threads: The Ease Factor in Pattern-Drafting Software

FREE Express Shipping for all PatternMaker software. Even to Europe! (Read the details.)

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This page was last updated May 12, 2003 03:26:06 PM .